One day in Franz Josef

The Franz Josef Glacier valley walk follows the river valley to a viewpoint of the glacier's face. It starts at the glacier car park, a few minutes' drive from the village. The valley floor changes with rockfall and flooding, so check DOC's track status before you set off and stay behind the barriers.

If you're flying, book the earliest flight you can. Flights don't usually run in rain or low cloud, and an early booking leaves the rest of the day to try again.

The village is small and easy to walk, with cafés and takeaways along the main road. If you'd rather head straight to the Centre, our café is in the same building as the shop, so you can eat before you go in.

A ranger takes a small group behind the scenes of the kiwi hatchery, where rowi and Haast tokoeka, two of the rarest kiwi, are incubated and raised. Depending on the season you may see eggs in the incubators or chicks in care. It's a working hatchery, so what you see changes from week to week.

The tour is for ages 8 and up and isn't suitable for wheelchairs. Arrive 15 minutes early. It includes the 48-hour pass, and if you already hold a day pass you can upgrade at the desk.

The kororā, or little blue penguins, here are rescued birds that can't return to the wild. Feeding is part of general admission. Come a few minutes early for a place at the pool, and listen as the keepers explain how each bird came to the Centre.

In the nocturnal house, give your eyes a minute to adjust and don't walk straight through. The kiwi forage in the half-light with no glass between you and them. Photos aren't allowed inside.

Next come the tuatara in their habitat, then the glacier attraction, which shows how the Franz Josef and Fox glaciers formed, how they shaped the land, and how far they have retreated. It's a good companion to the morning's walk or flight. The West Coast Māori storytelling areas, on the bond between the land, its wildlife and its people, are part of admission too.

Your ticket lets you back in for 48 hours from your first entry, so you can return after dinner, or the next morning before you drive on.

The first hour is the quietest, which suits young children and anyone who wants unhurried time in the nocturnal house.

Need cash for the rest of the trip? The ATM outside the Centre on Cron Street is the only dedicated bank ATM between Hokitika and Haast, and it's open 24 hours.

The first departure of the day finishes in good time for the morning feeding. Places are limited, so book ahead. The tour includes your 48-hour pass and is for ages 8 and up.

Children can watch from the front of the pool as the keepers feed the rescued kororā and talk about each bird. It's included in admission, so there's nothing extra to book.

Head into the nocturnal house once the feeding ends. Let your eyes adjust before you look for the kiwi, and keep voices low. Then find the tuatara, the last survivors of a group of reptiles that lived alongside the dinosaurs.

With the Centre done, the afternoon is yours. Lake Mapourika, a short drive north, mirrors the mountains on a still day. Closer to the village, short DOC tracks wind through the rainforest; pick one to suit small legs.